SODDED LAWNS: While Sodding Is More Expensive Than Seeding, The Result Is An Instant Lawn At Virtually Any Time Of The Year. For Successful Establishment Of Your Newly Sodded Lawn, It MUST Be WATERED Heavily Until The Sod Takes Root.  Do Not Allow Sod To Dry Out During This Period; Sod Will Shrink And Gaps Will Form Between Sod Squares.  Once Sod Is Rooted Down, Per Week.  New Sod Should Be Mowed When Grass Reaches 3” Inches In Height And Slight Resistance Can Be Felt If You Try To Lift The Sod (this means it is rooting down sod should be latched down in (2) Two weeks with optimum conditions) When Mowing Set The Mower Height Lowest being 2 ½: Inches – Better At 3 Inches.

SEEDED LAWNS: A Seeded Lawn, While Being The Most Economic Method Of Installing A Lawn, Usually Takes Up to Three (3) Years Of Care To Establish. We Sow The Proper Seed Blend That Will Adapt Itself To Your Climate and Site Condition. Mulch has been applied to hold moisture and prevent erosion; do NOT remove it. It will decompose naturally and add humus to the soil. It is advisable to attaché drain tile to downspouts to disburse rainwater until grass is established to prevent washouts.  Lightly water new seeding daily. It is important to keep the seed moist, but not to over water and cause washouts. In about one to two weeks, grass seeding will appear ( it may take longer in early spring and late fall when soil temperatures are lower ) Weeds which are normally present as seed in any topsoil, may also germinate. Most weeds are annual and mowing will prevent them from reproducing. Reseed any areas where seed does not germinate. Work up the soil with a garden rake, sow seed and continue watering. Do not let the new grass grow taller than three (3) inches before mowing. When you mow set mower at 2 ½” to minimize damage to tender grass seedlings. Once seeding is established, only supplementary watering necessary to keep grass growing. We recommend fertilizing with a lawn starter fertilizer (4) four weeks after seeding. This will encourage a thicker lawn and greener grass.  Weed and feed after three (3) Mowing a Winterizer in Sept./Oct. and pre-emergent in spring.

NURSERY STOCK: After transplanting,  nursery stock does not resume normal growth for as long as 2 full growing seasons. There is much that can be done, however, to encourage plants to establish themselves in as short a period as possible. The first (6) six weeks are the most critical for your newly transplanted nursery stock.

WATERING GUIDELINES, SPRING & FALL PLANTING: Soak your new plants thoroughly when planted, then (2) two times the first week and once (1) a week for the following year. Stop in September  for spring plantings. SUMMER PLANTING: Soak thoroughly when planting and again the next day. Water (3) three times the first week, and twice (2) a week for (3) three weeks and once (1) a week for the next year. Stop at freeze-up for those planted in August on.

 IMPORTANT WATERING TIPS:  Our Wisconsin soils and weather vary tremendously! The above guidelines for watering should be altered for unusual conditions:

       Heavy clay soil or cool rainy weather – Water half as often.

       Sandy, gravelly soil or very hot weather – water twice as often

       Late fall planting – Be sure to continue watering next spring

The soil should get moist to the bottom of the planting pit. But then it should be allowed to “ air out “ before being watered again. Adjust your watering schedule to reflect the recent rainfall amounts. Rainfall may provide some or all of the moisture needed.  Remember one (1) inch of rain replaces one watering. Also downspouts should be diverted from shrub beds. Plant roots are deep. When you water, soak thoroughly.  Don’t water a little every day. Don’t relay on sprinklers if you are watering your lawn.

PLANTING BEDS: To reduce competition for moisture and nutrients, we recommend you make every effort to remove weeds from your planting beds. Ground cover and flowerbeds, in particular, should be kept as weed free as possible to allow desirable plants to establish themselves.  We typically install a fibrous weed barrier (never use plastic, this seals out needed oxygen) or incorporate a granular weed preventive in the soil. Mulching with a porous material such as shredded bark or stone is beneficial as it shades the root area of plants and helps retain soil moisture.  Since shredded bark is an organic material, which gradually decomposes, it will need to be occasionally replenished.

STRAW / STRAW MATS: It is not necessary to remove straw or straw mats they will decompose naturally on there own, if you remove them you may kill the newly seeded grass. (On the first few  mowings it is recommended you rake the clippings and debris of the new grass.)